This mini-site was made to help owners of 6th Generation Accords to change their Dash Backlighting to LEDs.

Well that was fun wasn't it. Not you get to do all of you switches, and if you really feel like it your gauges.

Here's two pics of my indiglo gauges and the odmeter. It took some mixing and matching of regular bulbs and blue 194/168 LEDs to get this effect. The gauges are overexposed, you'll see their true color in cother pictures. I painted my needles using a red paint pen, but I found if I put blue leds in my whole instrument cluster, I got a real nice blue odometer, and a blue glow around my needles, but you couldn't see the red needle at all since blue LEDs are true blue and have no red light, it won't light the needles up, so I put regular bulbs in some places and I think I used 2 blue LEDs for the odometer. Don't quote me on it, though, I can't remember, and NO I won't take it out and look.

The clock is just 1 3mm peanut bulb, swap it out as I described on the LED page and you'll get this

After the climate control and clock are done, and you have a pretty neat stereo you get this

The switches at least on my car were a bit of a pain. It's 2 3mm LEDs for the Foglight button, 3 3mm LEDs for the TCS cruise button, and 2 3mm LEDs for the sunroof button. The space is tight in there so make sure you mount the resistor really low.

I also did the factory security LED since I still have the OEM alarm installed on top of my aftermarket alarm. To install this LED I took the door panel off, popped the little bezel out for the alarm LED, pulled on the wires for the LED circuit board, then took the board out. I unsoldered the nasty red LED that was in there, and replaced it with one of mine. There's a pair of voltage regulators that knock the 12v down to 3.3v so the LED's may not be that bright, but they will last forever, well unless you LED's happen to be 3.3 volt LEDs then they will be perfect. If you did use 3.3v LEDs I hope you used at least a 600Ohm resistor on the rest of this project.

I also took the nasty red LED out from my alarm and replaced it with a clear housing and a blue LED inside.

And if everything is done right this is what you'll end up with.

Here's the same cockpit when it's light :)

If you want a count of Bulbs I've Changed here it goes

1 3mm LED for clock
2 3mm LEDs for Foglight(one for backlight, one for on light)
3 3mm LEDs for TCS/Cruis(two for backlight one for cruise on light)
2 3mm LEDs for sunroof(both for backlight)
3 3mm LEDs for Climate Control
3 5mm LEDs for Climate Control
1 3mm LED for security LED
1 5mm LED for aftermarket alarm LED
4 194/168 LEDs for instrument cluster
4 194/169 LEDs for doors
2 194/169 LEDs for maplights
2 194/168 LEDs for strip under headlights
4 5mm LED for domelight custom rigged
2 mini 9" Neon under front dash
2 ultra mini 5" under seats
20" neon for trunk
8 5mm LEDs for vanity lights

Pick and choose what you want. You don't have to do everything I did, and by all means be original if you want

I had a true philips HID kit in my car(osram bulbs philips balasts and ignitors), but I was having trouble with one of the ignitors and there was a groupbuy coming up, so I sold the kit in anticipation. Mind you I had no troubles in two year with the philips kit in two cars, until one of the ignitors got very very wet one day. Easy install worked the first time. WellI recently got my new HID kit from the groupbuy put together by SIJ. It has philips single unit ballast and ignitor, but the bulbs are no name, and for the lack of a better term the bulbs SUCK FAT DONKEY DICK. I've never had so many problems in my life installing a HID setup and I've done quite a few. One bulb lights when it feels like it the other bulb lit twice and hasn't lit since, 5 days later, and a few hundred switches of my light switch. Other folks on this group buy haven't had any problems, some have, but I think I jsut got bulbs from a bad batch. I borrowed a philips ultinon bulb and it lit the first time, and every time after that, so I'm positive there's something wrong with my bulbs. Anyhow some folks wonder what the brightness difference is, since I only have one working bulb in my car at this time I took a pic of a PIAA platinum superwhite in the passenger side, and a no name 4300K HID bulb in the drivers side. The aim is identical on each side, you are purely seeing the difference in brightness. It would be a great kit, IF IT FREAKIN WORKED!

I wouldn't feel right if I didn't show off my motor :) let's see what all can you see. you can see a ballast on the passengers side in the front, optima battery, painted valve cover, tons of split loom, lots of blue silicon hose, my hella horns(damn red!!) , my AEM cold air intake, my cute mesh grill, OEM fogs, black housings with black corners

Here's some pics of my front and back brakes. Brembo crossdrilled slotted rotors with AEM brake pads. I love them!!

And finally two pics of the stuff in my trunk. First pic is the 20" neon rod I have illuminating my trunk instead of the crap 194 stock bulb, the thing with the rainbow wires is my rear dual zone shock sensor. The second pic is the heart of my system. 2 Kicker solobaric L7s(now called L5s), a kicker DX-700 amp, a kicker ZX-460 amp, a 1.5 farad digital cap, a precision power noise gate, and an audiocontrol matrix line driver. All installed by me. It's a little dirty and I have a stain in the middle, but nothing a little carpet cleaner and a little vaccuum won't fix.

Also Check out my sounddomain site for some updated Pics and information :) http://members.sounddomain.com/v6illusion